He said:
Right now, I'm hungry and no doubt rushing what I want to say. The flight to Heathrow was flawless, we landed before 8AM. Then a quick visit to the United Lounge was rewarding for a coffee and a wash up. The Heathrow Express was crowded with commuting business people, but we made it to our seats loaded down with luggage, and once at Paddington found a train that was leaving within 5 minutes for Totnes. As a result, we got to Totnes, and then to Dartmouth quite early.
May 7 is the main election day in the UK and polling places remain open for a long time; until 10PM.
The driver told us that taxis are very busy on election day taking people to/from the polling place.
After a small late lunch and a pint down at the water front, we walked around to see what was what. Dartmouth was the place where 485 vessels were launched for the morning of D day. We tried to imagine the small harbor having enough space for that many ships. Today, the harbor is filled with pleasure craft and ferry boats. The harbor is well sheltered from the sea with hills rising up on most sides, and with the curve of the River Dart flowing to the sea.
We found that our place was somewhat lacking in space and comfort, but at least it is safe and tomorrow is another day.
She said:
SFO International Terminal has always offered interesting, museum quality exhibits. This is a bonus as it takes the traveler out of the normal airport experience and gives good pause from the security lines, crying babies, stalled tourists and other normal airport anxieties.
I have seen exhibits of Flight Attendants' Uniforms throughout history, and displays of tea services from around the world.
The San Francisco Airport Museum is quite official now, with a long gallery of glass cases (10? 12? per side) just this side of the security lines.
They have outdone themselves with the current exhibit - jewelry worn by past Hollywood divas in famous movies. The jewels are displayed next to photos from the scenes in the movies, showing the actresses wearing them. Rope-length strand after strand of pearls clasped with egg-sized emeralds on Bette Davis portraying Elizabeth in The Virgin Queen. An entire case of diamond crowns from various royal movie interpretations. Marilyn and Ava and Liz and Vivian are dripping emeralds and pearl drops and gold. Every case is more magnificent than the last. All shiny and sparkly.
And...all fake.
Cut glass.
Colored glass.
Imitation pearls.
Metal.
Well, of course! Why would a studio risk the real thing? Still, they must have been a joy to wear and probably felt, literally, like a million bucks on. A fascinating look at an aspect of movie-making that I certainly never even thought about.
And, a real unexpected treat.
May 7
One more unexpected treat, in-flight: I ordered a beef tenderloin meal on the off chance that it would be less caloric than the pastas and newburghs and cream sauces otherwise on offer. Good choice as I was served one of the better filet mignons I have ever eaten! Go figure.
Flight uneventful (except for the beef), Heathrow Express to Paddington, Paddington to Totnes, taxi from Totnes to our B+B in Dartmouth.
On the train we met a bunch of pensioners out for a day trip. They (or their sig o's) all used to work for the British rail system. Now, they get a grand day out, train travel and lunch wherever they want, and they don't pay a dime. They were happy and funny and interesting to talk with.
I saw four red foxes sitting in a row, 20' from the tracks, and watching us go by.
Our train route took us by the Exe Estuary along a beautiful stretch of waterside. Lots of cows and bunnies and horses and sheep. We are in the countryside now.
Our B+B, Cxxxxx House, is a bit rough around the edges and I have an email into our trip planner. We are scheduled to stay in this location for 7 nights, so something's gotta give. All is made more comfortable by the fact that our hostess, Jxxxxxx, is sweet and wonderful and so accommodating.
Fish and chips for a late lunch at The Royal Castle Inn on the water downtown. Excellent. While there, I asked for a tour of a room. They are booked until Sunday, but I did see a pretty fantastic room that I might just have to have, from Sunday through the rest of our stay.
We shall see.
Sigh.
R and I now off for a minimal hike in the hills around town in our effort to stay up until 9,9:30 and jump on the new time zone. I could fall asleep standing up right now, so the fresh air is my only hope. It is 6 pm.
8:30 pm - back from our walk.
At the top of the hill just outside of town is a church (St. Clement's) and we poked around its graveyard. Quite Victorian, with some older graves. Several military graves from WWI. Lots of little kids' graves. So sad...6 mo., 5 years, 3 years, etc. A reminder that not all that long ago, teen age was a gift. Lovely views from up high. A murder of crows in a small grove of trees; maybe even their rookery. Woodcocks calling. Early evening and very pleasant.
Re: our accommodations
Good news and bad news.
The good news is that I scored a fantastic bottle of Schug Carneros Chardonnay at Marks and Spenser downtown. Those who have followed our blogs in other years know that I am ever hopeful of a good Chardonnay and, generally, am disappointed. This is a huge, huge score. I am enjoying it as I write.
Which helps with the bad news.
We have heard from the company that booked our trip. We are locked in to our 7 nights at The Cxxxxx House. While not ideal, we have decided that we will look at our stay here as a donation to an almost retired couple who probably really needs the income to make their ends meet. And, the Schug Carneros Chardonnay really does help with that.
Also while in town earlier today, we stumbled upon St. Savior's (? - will check that fact tomorrow) Church, built in 1280. 1280! An original door, made of heavy wood and engraved with the leopards of the Plantagenets, still opens and closes every morning and night. Of course, the obligatory needlepointed kneeling pillows. The Baptismal Font from the 14th century. The standard Coats of Arms of the local families displayed around the choir loft. The carved wood and the painted alter piece. These things still thrill me, even though, over the years, I have seen hundreds of countryside churches. Each has its own crazy standout thing. (This one is that door - the Plantagenets!)
OK.
Done for the night.
Namaste.
SFO Display of Jewelry for the Movies
Right now, I'm hungry and no doubt rushing what I want to say. The flight to Heathrow was flawless, we landed before 8AM. Then a quick visit to the United Lounge was rewarding for a coffee and a wash up. The Heathrow Express was crowded with commuting business people, but we made it to our seats loaded down with luggage, and once at Paddington found a train that was leaving within 5 minutes for Totnes. As a result, we got to Totnes, and then to Dartmouth quite early.
May 7 is the main election day in the UK and polling places remain open for a long time; until 10PM.
The driver told us that taxis are very busy on election day taking people to/from the polling place.
After a small late lunch and a pint down at the water front, we walked around to see what was what. Dartmouth was the place where 485 vessels were launched for the morning of D day. We tried to imagine the small harbor having enough space for that many ships. Today, the harbor is filled with pleasure craft and ferry boats. The harbor is well sheltered from the sea with hills rising up on most sides, and with the curve of the River Dart flowing to the sea.
We found that our place was somewhat lacking in space and comfort, but at least it is safe and tomorrow is another day.
She said:
SFO International Terminal has always offered interesting, museum quality exhibits. This is a bonus as it takes the traveler out of the normal airport experience and gives good pause from the security lines, crying babies, stalled tourists and other normal airport anxieties.
I have seen exhibits of Flight Attendants' Uniforms throughout history, and displays of tea services from around the world.
The San Francisco Airport Museum is quite official now, with a long gallery of glass cases (10? 12? per side) just this side of the security lines.
They have outdone themselves with the current exhibit - jewelry worn by past Hollywood divas in famous movies. The jewels are displayed next to photos from the scenes in the movies, showing the actresses wearing them. Rope-length strand after strand of pearls clasped with egg-sized emeralds on Bette Davis portraying Elizabeth in The Virgin Queen. An entire case of diamond crowns from various royal movie interpretations. Marilyn and Ava and Liz and Vivian are dripping emeralds and pearl drops and gold. Every case is more magnificent than the last. All shiny and sparkly.
And...all fake.
Cut glass.
Colored glass.
Imitation pearls.
Metal.
Well, of course! Why would a studio risk the real thing? Still, they must have been a joy to wear and probably felt, literally, like a million bucks on. A fascinating look at an aspect of movie-making that I certainly never even thought about.
And, a real unexpected treat.
May 7
One more unexpected treat, in-flight: I ordered a beef tenderloin meal on the off chance that it would be less caloric than the pastas and newburghs and cream sauces otherwise on offer. Good choice as I was served one of the better filet mignons I have ever eaten! Go figure.
Flight uneventful (except for the beef), Heathrow Express to Paddington, Paddington to Totnes, taxi from Totnes to our B+B in Dartmouth.
On the train we met a bunch of pensioners out for a day trip. They (or their sig o's) all used to work for the British rail system. Now, they get a grand day out, train travel and lunch wherever they want, and they don't pay a dime. They were happy and funny and interesting to talk with.
I saw four red foxes sitting in a row, 20' from the tracks, and watching us go by.
Our train route took us by the Exe Estuary along a beautiful stretch of waterside. Lots of cows and bunnies and horses and sheep. We are in the countryside now.
Our B+B, Cxxxxx House, is a bit rough around the edges and I have an email into our trip planner. We are scheduled to stay in this location for 7 nights, so something's gotta give. All is made more comfortable by the fact that our hostess, Jxxxxxx, is sweet and wonderful and so accommodating.
Fish and chips for a late lunch at The Royal Castle Inn on the water downtown. Excellent. While there, I asked for a tour of a room. They are booked until Sunday, but I did see a pretty fantastic room that I might just have to have, from Sunday through the rest of our stay.
We shall see.
Sigh.
R and I now off for a minimal hike in the hills around town in our effort to stay up until 9,9:30 and jump on the new time zone. I could fall asleep standing up right now, so the fresh air is my only hope. It is 6 pm.
8:30 pm - back from our walk.
At the top of the hill just outside of town is a church (St. Clement's) and we poked around its graveyard. Quite Victorian, with some older graves. Several military graves from WWI. Lots of little kids' graves. So sad...6 mo., 5 years, 3 years, etc. A reminder that not all that long ago, teen age was a gift. Lovely views from up high. A murder of crows in a small grove of trees; maybe even their rookery. Woodcocks calling. Early evening and very pleasant.
Re: our accommodations
Good news and bad news.
The good news is that I scored a fantastic bottle of Schug Carneros Chardonnay at Marks and Spenser downtown. Those who have followed our blogs in other years know that I am ever hopeful of a good Chardonnay and, generally, am disappointed. This is a huge, huge score. I am enjoying it as I write.
Which helps with the bad news.
We have heard from the company that booked our trip. We are locked in to our 7 nights at The Cxxxxx House. While not ideal, we have decided that we will look at our stay here as a donation to an almost retired couple who probably really needs the income to make their ends meet. And, the Schug Carneros Chardonnay really does help with that.
Also while in town earlier today, we stumbled upon St. Savior's (? - will check that fact tomorrow) Church, built in 1280. 1280! An original door, made of heavy wood and engraved with the leopards of the Plantagenets, still opens and closes every morning and night. Of course, the obligatory needlepointed kneeling pillows. The Baptismal Font from the 14th century. The standard Coats of Arms of the local families displayed around the choir loft. The carved wood and the painted alter piece. These things still thrill me, even though, over the years, I have seen hundreds of countryside churches. Each has its own crazy standout thing. (This one is that door - the Plantagenets!)
OK.
Done for the night.
Namaste.
SFO Display of Jewelry for the Movies
At Heathrow
Dartmouth
The St Saviour's church door from the year 1280, refurbished in 1631
This is a big, very solid door that still works!
Schug? In Devon?? That is a SCORE for sure. Happy for you friend :)
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