He Said:
We wanted to see Clun Castle and also explore the area and do a bit of walking. A grand day out; no trudging for hours on a rocky path trying to stay dry, this day was pleasant for walking. It was our last chance to walk on the Shropshire Way, and we walked along the rivers Unk and Clun on grassy paths, then climbed a bit to get a view of the valley and have our lunch. Like many English towns of that age (11th century), there is a mix of new, old, and very old if you look around and pay attention. I like these days because it’s like an Easter egg hunt; you never know what you’ll find.
She Said:
Mucinex to the rescue! Had enough of a recovery to get out there on the trail, one last time before London.
We got dropped off in Clun (pop. 680), a quintessential Shropshire village. It has castle ruins, a Church, a High Street with, maybe, 5 shops, and 4 pubs. The weather was fine - warmer and sunny. A great way to end our walking adventure.
Castle Clun
Built by Picot deSay in the years just after the Norman Conquest. It was the seat of the FitzAlan family 12 c. - 16 c. and is now owned by their descendant, the Duke of Norfolk.
Castle Clun helped to stabilize the area which was prone to uprisings and revolt since this was the newly conquered Welsh (not a surprise) Marches (borders between Eng. and Wales).
The FitzAlan's made gazillions in the wool trade (still sheep everywhere) and in the early 14th c. moved their main residence to Arundel Castle in Sussex. R and I visited Arundel Castle last year on our South Downs Way walk. Definitely not a country castle. Arundel was huge and luxurious with polished everything and lavish gardens. Castle Clun became their country retreat and hunting lodge. The forest was well stocked - 70 deer were hunted/killed each year.
The current footpath around the Castle is in the former moat. Looking up form there, the Castle looks wildly imposing (which was, of course, the point.)
To give you an idea of the FitzAlan family's wealth: Richard FitzAlan, the grandson of the guy who bought (won? fought for? inherited?) the Castle from deSay, was the richest man in England at the time of his death in 1376.
The Tower of the Castle was purpose built as, not as a defense, but as luxury accommodations for the FitzAlan family and guests. It was mostly just a show of wealth. Standing in it, it is easy to imagine the 4 floors of apartments, each with a story-high fireplace and arched windows (besides the walls, really all that remains) looking out over the countryside.
There is a Lawn Bowling Club next to the Castle. Nice view! I have noticed that most small towns here have lawn bowling greens. How civilized.
St. George's Church, Clun
1221
Some Norman archways, otherwise, refurbished by the Victorians in 1877.
Always an ancient Font, though.
And, always the lists of those local lads who died in WWI and WWII. The Bowen name pops up often in the Churches around here, as we are so close to the Welsh border. Bowen is a family name from R's mother's side of the family.
The Church cemeteries are always interesting, and this one is no exception. Lots of infants and toddlers. And lots of really old people. Plain and fancy tombstones. One, in particular, caught my eye. It is by far the largest plot in the graveyard (maybe 15'x15'?) - a sunken mausoleum surrounded by a wrought iron fence. Elaborate. Wealthy. And covered so thickly with weeds and vines that you really had to search to find the name (Hurst). Probably awesome in its day but now lost and abandoned.
We started our day's walk in town and set out again on the Shropshire Way. The path was easy and the day grand. Saw 4 other people on the trail - just how we like it! Big views. Green, green fields. Cows and calves and sheep and lambs and a hawk or two. Everything budding out. Perfect example of why we come to the UK countryside, year after year.
A shorter walk today, in deference to me and my cold. Back in town, we stopped in the local museum. I am always sort of amazed that these little country museums are not better attended. Plenty of people sitting outside a shop or a pub having tea or pints, but hardly anyone visiting these gems of information. Cannon balls from Castle Clun. Flint spear and arrowheads (John, reminded me of the Indian arrowheads you used to find in the woods in CT). Laces and clothes from two hundred years ago! And, upstairs, a room devoted to the Clun area's involvement in the wars. All kinds of uniforms, men's and women's. Hand lettered posters announcing dances in the Church halls. A Singer treadle sewing machine that looked remarkably like G. Kelmel's. There was a darling Grandma there with her grandson and great grandson who was telling me that her neighbor had one even older and whenever her own electric Singer would go on the blink, she could always borrow her neighbor's treadle machine as it always worked, no matter what. I told her how I remembered my grandmother's and how she had made her children's christening gown(s?) from her own wedding gown.
(There is an exhibit at the Imperial War Museum in London that maybe I'll get to see while we are there - Fashions on Rations - how women maintained "a look", even in wartime.)
The chatty museum lady gave me a good tip on a hidden spot in Clun, a small chapel and almshouses for farm workers who retired, had no family, and wanted to stay in the area. We walked up a secret country lane, through a secret garden, and into the secret courtyard of the Almshouses. A step back in time. Low roofs and short doors, but beautifully maintained now as private residences.
A pair of life-sized statues in the garden honor the farm workers and tell a bit of their tale: Joe Weale, "Joe the Bear" - named thus both for his gruff demeanor and the fact that he "wrastled a bear at the Knighton Fair". And, Billie Cantre, who "had a cheerier disposition". Yes, the Almsmen where known for their "wayward habits and antics".
Sorting out and packing up for our train trip tomorrow to London. We'll be traveling for about 5 hours, and I look forward to the rest and relaxation of a train ride before the onslaught of London.
Bye Bye, Countryside.
You've had some days of beautiful weather. Increcibly green countryside, too!
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