He Said:
Today we walked along a small section of the Offa’s Dyke long distance path. We only walked 9 miles out of its 177 mile length, but we certainly had a good days effort, and we got a good sense of the scale of the dyke itself. It's hard to perceive the original scale of the dyke other than it's length. The dyke follows ridges and valleys and was meant to be a defensive deterrent to invaders. But today, it's just a ditch and a mound running parallel and the terrain seemed more of a deterrent than the dyke. 1200 years ago, I'm sure it was quite different (less eroded of course), but even now, it shows the power and influence that King Offa had.
It was a roller coaster ride as far as weather goes: rain showers, hail, sun, all with a strong gusty wind blowing down from arctic seas from the northwest. The walk today was completely within Wales, and perhaps that explains the weather. We put on our rain gear after the first 15 minutes because we saw the next weather front coming in and wanted to be prepared before it hit. After that first brief hail shower, we kept the rain gear on for the entire day, not only for the other half a dozen light showers that came through, but also as a comfort against the strong wind. In short, it was the kind of day where you developed tunnel vision to keep going. We were not so tempted to stop anywhere for very long simply due to those winds that howled at times.
She Said:
Two entries today -
Monday, May 18 and Tuesday, May 19
Monday -
The Ludlow Assembly Rooms house the Tourist Info Center and, supposedly, an Internet connection. We high-tailed it over there from our B+B to try to catch up on some blogging. Heavy rain, so also figured it would be a place to rest and be dry.
The Tourist Info lady was good with Tourist Info, but the Internet connection was pretty much non-existent and she had no solutions for that.
So, off to St. Laurence's Parish Church (14th c.) just off the tiny Main Street of Ludlow.
Ludlow was a very wealthy medieval town. The deVerdens, the same noble family that built Stokesay Castle (yesterday's fortified manor house) also built the Church in Ludlow.
A side note: when we were snooping around the three areas in England last year where R's sister found long ago (1600) Brooks family connections, we came across a listing from 1310 in a Church, referencing deBrooke. This is the furthest back, so far, in tracing R's family tree. Just as the deLacy's built Ludlow Castle and the deVerdens built Stokesay Castle, the deBrooke name of that era, with "de" preceding, denotes French or Normandy heritage. It wasn't until the 15,1600's that English sir names dropped the "de".
In St. Laurence Church a female deacon announced that she would lead all present in a very short meditation/prayer. It was a lovely reminder to stop for a few minutes, thank who or whatever for the gift of being there, and realize that in addition to an historic building, we were all also walking around in a house of worship. Very Yoga-ish. I liked it.
St. John's Chapel (of St. Laurence Church) -
Built by the Palmer's Guild, a very rich charitable org. of the time that owned properties and paid priests to pray for members of their Guild, living and dead. Those wacky Guild members. The Chapel also contained a pretty amazing tomb and burial effigy from 1637.
The Chancel (of St. Laurence Church) -
This was considered the holiest part of the Church and was only used by the Clergy and the Choristers. And, guess what? It is the most elaborate part, too. (As we all know, Clergy at the time were crazy corrupt and wealthy, too.). As in Great Malvern Priory, the Choir seats were hinged and carved beneath, so that the pray-ers could lean back and relax if their praying became too strenuous.
Prince Arthur died in Ludlow in 1502 and his heart is buried in St. Laurence Church. A two day funeral was held there before the rest of his remains were transported to Worcester Cathedral for final internment. Arthur was 15 yrs. and 7 mo. old and his brother, Henry (the VIII) was only 14 when he became king 7 years later. Those wacky Tudors. The Chancel tombs and effigies also speak to the importance of the Council of the Marches of Wales as many floor plates named members of that Council (which was formed because of Ludlow's proximity to Wales and England's forever trying to keep the marauding, wild Welsh contained.). The Chancel also hosted, in 1582, the Festival of the Knights of the Garter (apparently a very big deal.)
The Lady Chapel (of St. Laurence Church) -
Rebuilt in 1199 (ha!)
Stained glass window from 1330.
Housed the two local iron wheeled, hand operated fire engines in 1669. There is an opening in the wall (now bricked in) that allowed the "engines" to go out into the town, as needed. Also original to that time, is a long row of pegs along one wall where the leather water buckets were kept at the ready.
A 10 Commandments painted board from 1562 hangs on another wall.
St. Catherine's Chapel (of St. Laurence Church) -
14th c.
Original wall frescoes have been uncovered and it is quite something to look at 700 year old paint!
Dame Lady Eure's tomb and effigy (1612) are in this chapel. She is reclining in a May West pose - pretty funny as she is clothed in classic Elizabethan dress.
The south and west aisles of the Church were used for education - where boys (sorry, girls - it would be a while until you had the right to learn) were taught grammar. Several windows and "roundels" depict the connection between the Church and education.
By the time we left the Church, the rain had stopped and it was a bright, sunny (though windy) day. We ate lunch at a 4-table little restaurant on Fish Lane (now just a few buildings long, but once running from the center of town all the way down to the River Teme. Probably used as the straight walk into town with the day's catch.). Working Together is like our Palo Alto Ada's Cafe at Mitchell Park, employing people with learning disabilities. I had an excellent carrot soup and R had an excellent curry and we both had their excellent bread baked fresh just hours ago. (The bread is called No Need to Knead Bread and I got the recipe and will try to make it when I get home. It was so good.)
We collected our bags from the Hen and Chickens B+B, Colin our taxi driver collected us, and off we drove to our home for the next 6 nights, The Castle Hotel in Bishop's Castle. Our room is big and beautiful with a sitting area and a giant bathroom and I am happy to stay here forever.
Tuesday, May 19, 2015
Today our walk started in Wales, on Offa's Dyke Parh. Offa was a powerful King in this area around 750 AD, before England or Wales existed as countries. He was able to unite the marauding, wild Welsh (though, of course they weren't called that then) and the get-off-my-land English (though they weren't called the English then, either.) He built a 177 mile long dyke to keep in or out whoever he felt like keeping in or out.
It was cold (45) and windy and threatening rain and hail.
We talked to a Welsh guy who was walking his dog. At least, I think we had a conversation. His Welsh accent was so thick that I only understood about every 10th word. Still, we parted smiling and happy, so I guess we had some sort of connection.
Since the forecast was for sun, showers, hail and thunder, we decided to fully suit up and put all our rain gear on - gortex from head to toe. Good plan as about 10 minutes later it started to hail. Yes, hail.
I have to say, though, I felt great. I had my long under wear on, too, so I was toasty. My hood was up, my gloves were on. And, the wind and the hail made me feel so alive. I have felt this way before on our walks - and usually in crappy weather. I distinctly remember two other times - once on a God-forsaken hilltop in Ireland when the sky was so dark and the rain was pelting us, and once on the Dales Way in Yorkshire, when the wind was so harsh that the heavy rain was sideways. It seems as though as long as I know that it's coming and I am dressed for it, I really love it. It is a wonderful experience to feel the power of Nature.
(Another aside: this morning, as I was slathering up my big toe with Vaseline before I put my socks on, as it is my one hot spot in my boots, I got a clear whiff of menthol. I couldn't figure where it was coming from. Finally, I sniffed the little container holding my Vaseline and realized that I have been dousing my toe with Vick's Vaporub for the last 10 days. Ha!)
In Wales, the place signs are in both English and Welsh. Welsh is a totally unpronounceable language. R and I took some photos of Welsh signs and I dare you to try to pronounce them correctly.
At the top of one ridge, the clouds blew off and we had 360 degree views of the gorgeous countryside. This is much wilder country today - plenty of farm fields and woods but the farmhouses are few and far between. We were really out there.
We met a guy that was thru walking the Offa's Dyke Path. He was walking 20 miles a day and "wild" camping, that is, carrying everything on his back, stopping in little towns for supplies and small tent camping on the side of the trail. We looked up at the approaching rain and he said that it had been following him all day. He was not too happy when we met, but he enjoyed talking with us and began to soften as we talked. He has done thru, rough walking for many years, so I'm sure he knew what he was getting into. Anyway, always good to take a few minutes on the Path and exchange stories with fellow walkers.
We experienced 5-6 showers today. They were fairly violent, but only lasted about 10 minutes each (except the last one that had that sideways rain and crazy wind - my feet got wet and if we weren't near the end of our day's walk, it might have done me in.)
We walked through one shower that seemed impossible. Blue sky above, yet raining on us. How could that be? (An explanation please, John.)
We were far out and high up in the countryside today - walking through lots of sheep grazing fields. So, lots of "poop paths." (We took our boots off at the front door to the Hotel today and certainly won't be bringing them up to our room. There is a nook with a radiator by the front door where we chucked them, so hopefully they'll be dry in the morning.)
We ate a very fast 1st lunch just off the path leaning against a fallen tree with our backs to a fierce wind. And, of course, it began to rain.
In Wales, it seems to be very early Spring whereas in the south of England, Spring was in full swing.
When we did pass by a farmhouse today, we could smell their wood fire and it smelled heavenly. I could picture it warm inside against this dramatic weather today.
We walked down into Knighton, our pick up spot for the day. We were a bit early so we poked around in the town (hilly and a real farm town - some attempts at cutesy shops, but mostly utilitarian.).
We checked out the Church. Built in 900 but only the tower remains from that era. In 1752, the Church was such a mess, that it "became a danger to the persons attending Divine Service."
So, demolished except for the tower and rebuilt.
By 1877 it was a real mess again, so the Victorians demolished it (except for the tower) and rebuilt it to its present light and airy Church. They dedicated it to St. Edward the Confessor and it is lovingly looked after and maintained now.
The Offa's Dyke Visitors Center in Knighton is where Colin, the taxi driver, picked us up and we drove back to our hotel satisfied with our admirable walking today.
Pints from the downstairs pub room and all is right with the world.
Photos from the Offa's dyke walk
some hail
LOL on the vick's vapor rub!!!
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